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O filme falado operou uma grande revolução na industria cinematographica norte-americana; o filme falado substituiu completamente o filme mudo. Em Hollywood trabalha-se noite e dia na producção de "talkies". Todo os estudios foram equipados para esse fim, salvo um: o de Charlie Chaplin. Charlie é o ultimo baluarte da arte muda. Recusa-se a admittir o "écran" sonóro reclamado pela universidade do publico americano e até o presente, pelo menos, passa o máu humor não produzindo nada.
Formidaveis capitaes foram investidos nessa innovação; o mais curioso é que as mais importantes firmas cinematographicas passaram ao controle das grandes sociedades de electricidade. Estas tem tanto interesse pelo cinema como pela arte. Consideram-nas no mesmo ponto de vista em que se collocam quando se trata da fabricação de cabos electricos, de apparelhos frigorificos ou de vibradores para massagem. Para ellas o filme não é senão um objecto como um outro qualquer a ser manufacturado em melhores condições para melhor proveito commercial. Ora, não ha mais margem para lucros fóra do filme sonóro nos Estados Unidos. Ha vinte e cinco annos o publico pagava para vêr na téla as imagens animadas, sem se preoccupar com a sua qualidade. Hoje, exige que o "écran" fale e cante, sem se deter nas censuras de Carlitos e nas que certos criticos cinematographicos dirigem ao filme falado, accusando-o de destruir a verdadeira arte do cinema.
Novas figuras fizeram a sua apparição em Hollywood. Foram os technicos da industria electrica, na maioria jovens, sahidos ha pouco das universidades e dos laboratorios, e que, até o anno ultimo não haviam posto os pés num estudio. Da noite para o dia tornaram-se mestres e todos devem obediencia à sua autoridade. Esta incursão não se fez sem choques. O antigo pessoal que tinha os seus habitos e as suas tradicções, oppoz a principio a sua má vontade e a força inercia a estes novos, cuja experiencia contestavam. Mas os directores actuaes dos estudios se propuzeram a despedir summariamente a quem quer que se oppuzesse à livre manifestação das idéas e das empresas desses jovens technicos de electricidade.Tambem os estudios, por sua vez, mudaram completamente. Uma disciplina meticulosa e absoluta substituiu o amavel "deixa correr o marfim" dos velhos tempos. Tornaram-se como que o templo de uma nova divindade: o silencio. Foi proscripto de maneira implacavel, o irreconciliavel inimigo do registro sonoro: o ruido, que não se tolera de maneira alguma. As paredes são calafetadas, todas as portas munidas de amortecedores do som. Quando se illumina a lampada vermelha que annuncia a todos o inicio da filmagem de uma scena falada um guarda, com sandalias de feltro, aferrolha todas as communicações e mesmo um "ukase" do tzar do cinema americano, Will Hays, não lhes póde determinar, nessa occasião abertura. Aliás, visitante algum é admittido. Tudo assume um ar de mysterio e de segredo. "Metteursen-scene", actores, operadores, machinistas, ficam postados no seu lugar não ousando trocar uma unica palavra e procurando evitar, a todo o transe, uma tosse, qualquer ou uma contracção nervosa, cujo ruido não deixaria de impressionar o ouvido sensivel do microphone temido.Não ha mais o rumor dos ventiladores que renovavam o ar acculinado, ou das orchestras de jazz que distrahiam ou estimulavam o trabalho. Foi preciso sacrificar um milhão de dollares de lampadas a carvão por causa do seu ruido quando accesas. Foram substituidas por lampadas de incandescencia que são silenciosas mas que aquecem infernalmente a atmosphera e transformam os studios num forno. Para supprimir o ruido da camera foram estudados diversos meios. O que se emprega, geralmente, hoje em dia, consiste em encerrar camera e operadores em uma cabine hermeticamente fechada, munida de um espesso vidro, através do qual se effectua a tomada de vistas. As portas são fechadas exteriormente, de maneira que os operadores não as possam abrir para tomar um pouco de ar. Para impedir que succumbam à asphyxia, quando o seu trabalho se prolonga o ar lhes é transmittido por meio de um tubo. Para a tomada de vistas exteriores estas precauções são menos necessarias e a camera fica ao ar livre. O perigo a evitar ahi é o da explosão dos motores de automoveis passando nos arredores, ou de um aeroplano cortando o ar.
O director da tomada de vistas, que dominava outróra no studio como director absoluto, tem actualmente acima delle alguem a cujas ordens deve obediencia: o chefe do registro sonóro ou como se chama o "Controleur do som" ("controler of sound"). "Acima delle" é uma expressão concreta e não uma simples figura. Este "controleur" está com effeito fechado numa especie de cabine de piloto, collocada na parte superior do estudio. A cabine é calafetada e as suas largas paredes são constituidas por cinco espessuras de vidro.
Com um receptor telephonico no ouvido, o "controleur" ouve pelo fio os sons e os ruidos que serão registrados pelo microphone. Sempre com auxilio do telephone elle regula a natureza e a intensidade, dando aos "metteurs-en-scéne" a permissão para movimentar ou interromper o registro e a tomada de vistas. Alguns instantes depois da scena ter sido fixada, ella é projectada deante de todo o pessoal do estudio, reunido em assembléa, afim de constatar se o registro foi bom ou se é preciso recomeçar. É o que se chama o "play back".
O "talking" não dá margem a improvizações de quaesquer especies. Tudo deve ser previsto com antecipação: o scenario, o texto, os ruidos. Do mesmo modo não é mais possivel, em face da synchronização sonóra, rodar varias vezes a mesma scena para obter os differentes planos. É-se obrigado a registrar ao mesmo tempo os "long shots", os medium shots" e os "close ups", quer dizer os planos geraes, os planos medios e os grandes planos.
Chega-se a esse resultado por meio de objectivas com cameras differentes. Ou ainda dispondo-as em differentes partes do estudo e rodando sob angulos diversos, Ha, às vezes, quinze! Mas como estas cameras são fechadas nas cabines, ellas não têm a mobilidade de que beneficiavam os filmes mudos e não se pode locomovel-as tão facilmente, o que necessariamente dá ao filme alguma monotonia.
De um modo geral, a photographia dos "talkies" é menos perfeita do que a dos filmes mudos. É preciso dizer além disso que ao publico americano o que interessa principalmente é a novidade sonóra. Assim os "talkies" são confeccionados com maior rapidez do que os antigos filmes: primeiramente porque não se perde tempo recomeçando cinco ou seis vezes a mesma scena sob o pretexto de que a estrella não appareceu vantajosamente no grande plano; em seguida porque a "mise-en-scene" é menos complicada e menos variada; enfim porque as partes faladas consomem, sózinhas, uma longa metragem. Se se puzerem de parte as despesas de amortização do material que são formidaveis, o filme sonóro torna-se menos caro do que o filme mudo e se póde produzir com vantagem. Póde-se ser que, quando o filme falado tiver perdido a sua attracção de ineditismo o publico se mostre mais exigente quanto ao assumpto; mas tambem o periodo dos primeiros titubeios passou e a experiencia adquirida permittirá melhorar uma producção ainda defeituosa. Uma consequencia fatal do filme falado foi modificar a escala dos valores dos artistas. As qualidades photogenicas tornaram-se, senão secundarias, pelo menos insufficientes. É assim que, por exemplo, as famosas "Bathing Beauties" de Mack Sennet, as banhistas, cuja plastica impeccavel fez a fortuna de tantos filmes, tiveram em sua maior parte de renunciar ao cinema, porque ellas não sabiam cantar. Hoje, não resta senão a pequena Thelma Hill, que soube resistir às exigencias do microphone. As proprias "girls", que outróra eram simples figurantes, são agora obrigadas à posse de um minimum de talento vocal, e foram instituidos para sua aprendizagem, cursos de canto nos estudios.A principio suppoz-se que as artistas e os actores de theatro seriam os mais aptos para os "talkies" e uma verdadeira multidão desses elementos se precipitou dos theatros de Nova York para Hollywood com esse objectivo. Mas o publico cinematographico se mostrou refractario à dicção emphatica desses profissionaes.
Na hora actual, são as antigas vedettas de cinema que encontram o favor perdido. Estudaram dicção e canto e retomam, por isso progressivamente o seu lugar nos estudios.Um dos problemas mais graves que affligem o filme falado, é o dos mercados estrangeiros. Houve inicialmente tão intensa procura dentro dos Estados Unidos, que os americanos não se preoccupam com a exploração possivel em outros paizes como a Allemanha, a França, a America do Sul. Mas conhecidas como são as despesas formidaveis das copias em outros idiomas, além da sua imperfeição, é no proprio filme sonóro que estará a felicidade completa, e ampla prosperidade das cinematographias de cada paiz.



Publicado na Folha da Manhã, domingo, 30 de julho de 1933

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Gostei bastante dessa matéria... É muito interessante ver o ponto de vista da época, mudou algumas concepções que eu tinha. Eu não sabia que o filme falado tinha tantas limitações assim no começo, por causa da tecnologia rudimentar de gravar o som, e também nunca imaginaria que os filmes falados eram mais baratos de se produzir do que os mudos. Também é legal notar algumas previsões erradas que o repórter faz.

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The relative complexities of women's and men's fashion

Both women and men can have the demands of keeping their wardrobe up-to-date and in season, yet men's fashion often feels a lot less complicated. Of program, for both sexes, outfits and style choices can be quite as complex, and there are many'fashionable'things that can easily become fashion faux pas - who will say they often see people running around in 70s flames? On the other side, men's style includes a few choice items which can exist eternally - which man is going to watch out of place with a good-quality, tailored suit, for example? Choose classic cuts, colours and fabrics and you'll never seem out-of-place.

Why common men's style is timeless

The classic man's suit has hardly changed for over a hundred years. True, there are several versions for various occasions, however they are all popular in their pursuit of a clever, sharp search for the individual. The neat thing about traditional style for men is that it is efficiently stylish effortlessly neat. A well-groomed gentleman can almost always look his sharpest in a well-tailored suit, and this can be a testament to the design of such clothing. A match will be worn to work in many professions due to the professional look it affords to the person, instilling a sense of respect and confidence. Equally a suit will undoubtedly be worn to many social functions, such as a tuxedo to a black-tie event. This incredible flexibility which allows matches to be used in just about all functions is what gives it its timeless advantage and a permanent devote men's fashion.

Modern trends in traditional men's fashion

Although common men's styles will never be replaced, it is interesting to note that changes in men's fashion trends have produced particular common clothes back into fashion. The recognition of vintage clothing, specially, has taken back a wide-variety of classic styles into men's wardrobes, such as that of the dandy gentleman. 'Dandy'is a term used to reference men who dress yourself in a classic yet elegant way, placing value on appearance and acting in a polished manner. This trend for nearly'over-the-top'traditional fashion for men is apparent from events like the'Tweed Run', wherever men and girls of all ages clothe themselves in significantly Victorian-style attire and decide to try the streets on vintage bikes - with lots of the men sporting flawless mustaches! This is only one of many examples of evidence exhibiting the resurgence of such types. There are also numerous sites on the web which give attention to gentlemanly type - such as'The Dandy Project'and'Dandyism'- as well as complete web sites such as'The Art of Manliness'dedicated to giving articles on basic men's fashion and grooming.

In summary, though specific facets of basic men's fashion can be cut back as new styles, the simple garments that they are derived from will never fall out of fashion.

"All it will take certainly are a few simple clothes. And there is one key - the simpler the better." - Cary Grant

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